TOAST Renewal Auction
At TOAST, we have long viewed our garments as a resource to recycle rather than waste. As we strive to increase the longevity of garments and reduce waste, we are looking at the thoughtful and artistic ways we can give new life to TOAST pieces.
As part of our ongoing partnership with Crafts Council UK, we asked eight experienced textile artists from across the world to renew a few TOAST pieces from our archive collection. Using remnant fabric and faulty garments from production, each piece has been repaired, renewed and transformed using a variety of textile techniques.
In keeping with each maker’s unique style and artistic approach, the garments have been renewed with great attention to detail - from hand embroidered collars and patchworking to visible mending and appliquéd shapes.
The finished pieces will be auctioned online from 14 - 21 May, with all proceeds being donated to Crafts Council UK. Below, we discuss each of the renewed garments in detail ahead of the auction.
Appliqué Cotton Shirt. Size 6. Supple and light checked cotton with hand appliquéd shapes by multidisciplinary textile artist Arounna Khounnoraj. Based in Toronto, Canada, Arounna uses traditional techniques such as visible mending, appliqué and patchworking to explore pattern, colour and image. In her practice she also uses the slow, therapeutic process of hand embroidery to create versatile, wearable garments. The shirt has an easy, swingy cut, with raglan sleeves that finish at the wrist bone. Collarless with a single button fastening to one side and buttoned cuffs.
Amy Isles Freeman
Painted Denim Dungarees. Size 8. Medium-weight washed denim with large, gestural hand painted motifs by artist Amy Isles Freeman. From her Brighton studio, Amy creates bold and joyous works that celebrate the strength of women.There is a fluidity and sense of ease to her painting, characterised with graphic and gestural lines and shapes. The dungarees have easy, straight legs with four pockets in the trouser. They have a central bib pocket, adjustable straps and three buttons to fasten at the right side.
Painted Canvas Workwear Jacket. Size 8. Hard-wearing and supple, garment dyed cotton/linen canvas with contrasting hand painted motifs. The jacket has an easy and classic workwear cut with a cutaway collar. Sleeves finishing at the wrist bone, two deep patch pockets with flaps and an additional internal pocket.
Appliqué Tie Back Apron. One Size. Supple, quality linen with patches of embroidered shapes by Alice Burnhope at the pockets and bib. Alice uses traditional quilting techniques combined with new technologies to create interactive, sensory works of art from her South London studio. Utilising reclaimed materials where she can, many of her wearable designs are inspired by nature and dyed in a soft, plant-based palette of dusty pinks and pale ochres. The apron has a relaxed and roomy cut with a deep V back. Herringbone tape ties, to be tied at the back and large pockets.
Embroidered Linen Canvas Coat. Size 16. Supple and quite weighty canvas, with subtle areas of embroidery by Alice Burnhope at the collar and cuffs. Statement quilted emblem at the belt. The coat has an oversized cut with a statement collar and raglan sleeves. Button-through with dark horn buttons, belt loops and belt. Two large patch pockets at either side. Cotton buggy lining.
Poplin Collarless Shirt. Size M. Crisp and light, Italian-woven cotton poplin with a gauzy thread embellished panel at the front, by research-led designer Rashmi Bidasaria. Originally from Mumbai, Rashmi works across many different materials and mediums, often blurring the lines between materials and their conventional uses. The shirt has an oversized, easy cut with dropped shoulders. Collarless, button down with corozo buttons, bracelet length sleeves with buttoned cuffs. Box pleat into back yoke, with hanging tab.
Needlecord Shirt Dress. Size 18. Soft, lightweight cotton needlecord with subtle, intricate rows of motifs at the back, tufted by hand. The dress has a neat fit across the shoulders with a swingy skirt. It is collarless, button-through and has a concealed button placket. Gently shaped waist with light pleats and side darts.
Embroidered Jumpsuit. Size 14. Soft and midweight cotton twill with a brushed finish. Playful stitched motifs down each sleeve, hand embroidered by Tiffany Mumford from her studio in Brixton, South London. Tiffany is drawn to the narratives that imperfections and previous mends can have, using her own stitches to add to each garment's unique story. The Jumpsuit had an easy cut with a V opening. Wrist bone length sleeves with buttoned cuffs. Full length legs, to be rolled or as you will. Deep carpenter side pockets, front patch pocket and a back patch pocket.
Embroidered Cotton Dress. Size 12. Midweight, soft cotton with the same close weave as a traditional Oxford shirt. Hand embroidered stems and flowers at the lower hem. The dress has an easy cut with a swingy, tiered skirt. Collarless and button down with a neat, stitched placket detail. Gathers into each tier and fine gathers into back yoke. Sleeves finishing at the wrist bone with buttoned cuffs.
Embroidered Poplin Wrap Dress. Size 16. Crisp and light cotton poplin with embroidered motifs by artist Hannah Refaat. Based in London, Hannah uses the landscape and environment of the Middle East to inform her designs, utilising a combination of traditional Middle Eastern and Western embroidery techniques. The dress has a collared V opening with a wrap over front and button closure on one side. Gently fitted bodice and inverted pleats into front and back waist. Wide, easy sleeves finishing at the elbows. Centre seam down the back and darts into back waist seam.
Embroidered Cotton Raglan Shirt. Size 12. Very light and airy cotton with a yarn dyed check throughout. Contrasting stitches and fabric blocks throughout. The shirt has an easy, boxy cut. Collarless with smocking and stitch details around the neck. V opening, bracelet length raglan sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
Appliqué Cotton Parka. Size 10. Italian-woven, midweight, water resistant cotton blend. Paths of stitching throughout and canvas patchworking by Isabel Fletcher. Taking inspiration from the overlooked details of the everyday, Isabel’s textile works often expose raw edges and visible stitches. Using offcuts and discarded fabrics as her starting point, she allows the unique shape, colour and texture of the fabric to inform her compositions. The parka has an easy, roomy cut, for layering underneath or as you will. Button tab to fasten at front neck, and button down with four corozo buttons. Flapped pockets, drawstring at inner waist and a large hood. Full length sleeves.
Appliqué Denim Dungarees. Size 10. Mediumweight, indigo-dyed, organic cotton with colourful applique patches throughout. The dungarees have easy, straight legs with four pockets in the trouser. They have a central bib pocket, adjustable straps and three buttons to fasten at the right side.
Appliqué Dogtooth Shirt. Size 8. Soft, midweight cotton with appliquéd blocks around the placket by Isabel Fletcher. The shirt has a long, pull on cut, and is collarless with a row of buttons below. Full length sleeves with buttoned cuffs. Curved hem dropped lower at back.
Embroidered Wool Coat. Size 8. Warm and textured, boiled wool with hand embroidered areas at the pockets, buttons and vent. Intricately stitched by London-based textile artist Richard McVetis. Using labour-intensive hand embroidery to explore our perception of space and time, Richard’s process is slow and almost ritualistic, with each piece becoming a map of the human hand. The coat has an easy, roomy cut, a cutaway collar and a row of buttons below. Full length sleeves. Two large patch pockets at front. Centre seam down the back with vent.
The TOAST Renewal Auction is now open and closes Fri 21 May 5pm (BST).